How to paint figs. Matt

[Matt J]

Continuing on from Kev and Rob's guides I'd like to add my own.

Firstly I use GW paints and brushes (don't shoot me) so I won't be naming the paints I use as they are far too silly. Its just what I've always used and what I'm comfortable with.
I start by cleaning my models of any flash (quite quick with Pendraken sculpts) and then glue about 10 models at a time to strips of cut up mount board - its light and comfortable to hold and the models are easy to remove afterward as the paper outer just tears off. For this example I've single based a figure for ease of photography.
I spray undercoat white - I know people prefer black, I've tried it but I find the detail easier to find with white. Each to their own.



I start with base colours just roughly not too neat. Coat dark red, cuffs and coat front yellow, face and hands dark flesh tone and musket brown. Belts and other smaller details are left at this stage as they just get messed up.



Next I wash each base area with a darker tone of very watered down paint. Red areas 50% mix red/dark brown, yellow 50% mix yellow/ medium brown, white areas 50% grey/black mix. No wash on the dark musket.



Next first layer of highlights which is the original base colour over most of the area except the recesses. I use slightly watered down paint for highlights to help the colours blend.



Next second and third highlights if required. Normally a lighter shade of the base colour or a little white added to the base.



Next I paint the model base an earth colour to help pick out the shoes. Paint the shoes and any other black items like cartridge boxes, ties, buttons etc. The large black items are highlighted with a 33% mix black/blue grey/grey. Then another highlight adding a little more light grey.
The musket is highlighted with a lighter shade of brown and musket barrel, bayonet and mechanism painted black before being highlighted with 50% gunmetal/black mix, then gunmetal then the end of the bayonet picked out in silver.



Next the face and hands with original dark flesh colour then 50% mix of dark flesh and light flesh colours, then final highlight in light flesh tone. I don't worry about being too accurate with the flesh highlights going over the model after to pick out fingers, eyes, mouth etc in dark brown.

Then the finishing  - A bit of dark lining (50% black dark brown mix slightly watered down) to go over some of the edging then the really hard part of lace edging mitre cyphers etc.

Then the finished article a grenadier of the 15th foot ready to fight at Quebec.







Hope this of some help to some.

Next time I'll talk about some specifics on some of my comp entries from this year.

Matt

[Steve J]

Very useful Matt, but how on God's earth did you write the GR on the mitre .

[Techno]

Excellent, Matt !!
Cheers - Phil

[FierceKitty]

The advantages of studying Latin like a gentleman! Nifty brush you wield there, sir.

[Matt J]

Very useful Matt, but how on God's earth did you write the GR on the mitre

like everything patience and practice   

Seriously though to everyone out there that says 'I can't paint to a really high standard'  well remember painting models is straight forward. The sculptor has done all the work for you already. Its not like having a blank page or a piece of stone. The proportions are there and with research it is easy to know which bit of a model is painted what colour. Its painting by numbers. It just takes time - if that bit doesn't look right revisit it, do it again until your happy.. I wouldn't suggest this if you want to an army on the table quickly but now and then spend some serious time over a model, maybe a general or elite unit. Just go for it and make it look exceptional. When you've done post some pics and show everyone how good you can make these little guys look. They are really detailed miniatures for the scale. Now and again give a model the time it deserves.

Its all just patience and practice.

[Ace of Spades]

I couldn't agree more with you Matt!
Like your work a lot!

Cheers,
Rob

[kev1964]

I also agree  Matt, you can paint them quick and make them look good or you can take a bit more time and make them look stunning. A great tutorial, i dont use washes but i will give them a try now i have seen how you do yours, great work. I was also very impressed with Robs army, a different way of painting to ours, but really effective.


kev

[TinyTerrain]

Thanks Matt (Kev and Rob too), the tutorials are a real inspiration to try some new techniques.

Thanks for taking the time to explain,

Cheers,

Craig
Tiny Terrain Models

[Steve J]

I know I need to ditch some of my old and worn brushes, especially having just opened my North West Frontier Afghans that are just so beautifully detailed. I also inherited an optivisor at work but the headband is too small, so I need to cut it to fit my big head!

[Matt J]

Thanks Matt (Kev and Rob too), the tutorials are a real inspiration to try some new techniques.

No problem Craig hope they prove to be of some use even if in a small way.

I was also very impressed with Robs army, a different way of painting to ours, but really effective.

I know enamels, I would never of thought, just goes to show the results you get using mediums you're comfortable with. A showcase of your Boer war army would be great if you get time Rob.

Kev - The washes are good for tonal affect but time consuming. With your technique you have it down to a tee so you go straight from primer to highlighting and get great results fast. I suppose as a pro-painter you need to as time is money (I knew you would need to knock them out but 5 an hour, 1 every 12 mins, at that standard is quite frankly scary). But again its having a technique tried and tested.
I'm lucky to average a model an hour 

especially having just opened my North West Frontier Afghans that are just so beautifully detailed

Pic please Steve, when you're ready 

[Ace of Spades]

I'm working on the last bits and pieces now (horseholders with horses, Maxim's, Pompom, howitzers, wagons etc) As soon as they're alldone and based I'll try to take some time to make some decent pictures and also try to find out how to post 'em here. (That's the hard bit!)
As soon as they're done I'll also start on my North West Frontier models but I'll start with doing my Ghurka's etc. first. I can't wait to start with the tribesmen either but I'll have to restrain myself for a while!

Cheers,
Rob

[Hertsblue]

Matt, great guide and a superb little figure.

I notice you use "slightly watered down" paint for the highlights. Don't they tend to run if you're not careful?

[Ace of Spades]

With enamels you can use exatly the same technique and the problem is not the amount of watering (thinning) down but the amount of paint on the brush.
What I do when I want to paint subtle highlights or small detail is I thin the paint down, dip the brush in gently but first hold the 'side' of the brush to a piece of tissue; not too long so all the paint gets drained out but just long enough for the 'drop' to clear.
It takes some practice but if you don't have a 'drop' on or 'in' the brush it won't run.

Cheers!
Rob

[Matt J]

I notice you use "slightly watered down" paint for the highlights. Don't they tend to run if you're not careful?

As Rob says it is just making sure you have the right amount of paint on the brush. I paint on an A4 pad of graph paper and just wipe the brush slightly on that before applying it to the model. It takes a bit of practice but it means your highlights blend better and looks so much neater than dry brushing.

[paulr]

... it means your highlights blend better and looks so much neater than dry brushing.

This had me thinking, in some ways I prefer the less neat effect of dry brushing, perhaps I'm old fashioned 

It depends, I think, on the look you are after in the army. Has it been marching for days in the hot Carolina sun and rushed into battle or is it on parade and trying to impress