Non-Pendraken Board Info!

[Norm]

I am working on some Kallistra (12mm) Anglo-Saxon General Fyrd (coerls) and  have become really frustrated by by wash. I am going for muted earth tones as a palette.

For my first wash, I used Vallejo Dark Grey wash watered down with water and medium to 1 ink to 3 water / medium. This is a very pigmented was and I feel at this mix, is still too strong for me.

Firstly I primed in brown special metal primer, then heavily applied the wash, once dry I block painted, but the I feel th paint picked up the was and became dirty ...... so re highlight every thing and then wash thinly - figures were just too dark and drab for little fellows.

So re highlight again, but things looked a bit harsh, so calmed down with a wash of GW Sepia wash mixed 50/50 with water/medium, but I still feel the figures are looking a bit drab. They may 'lift' with basing, but I am unhappy at the moment with my final wash mix and need to experiment further. It may be that the sepia was is OK and that I just need to start out with brighter colours on the figure.

[paulr]

Getting the balance right with washes is tricky, particularly when going for muted colours

You definitely need to go slightly brighter / lighter with your colours and have to make sure the wash and the colours are completely dry
I tend to leave at least 12 hours between painting / washing

I hope you find something you are happy with

[Steve J]

I find that after block colours, as wash with GW Devlin Mud works well. Depending upon the colours, I'll either leave it neat, which works well for sandy colours, or dilute it 50% with water for say blues and greens. I leave it to dry overnight and then highlight any areas I think need doing. Hope this helps Norm.

[Norm]

Thanks Paul / Steve, on the next batch, I am not going to lay ink down until the end of the process. I have binned my Vallejo Dark Grey, it is so richly pigmented that I can't see it working with my style.

[kipt]

Here is a site that is interesting.

https://andybelseymodels.wixsite.com/mysite/1-285-ww1-models

[Fenton]

I use the same method for 10mm as I do for 6. Prime grey and thin black wash to bring out detail. Block in colours then wash with W&N nut brown (again quite thin) and sometimes I add a highlight especially on anything that's meant to be white

I find a very diluted future wash works well on 10mm also

I agree with Paul in allowing the original base colours to dry properly

[Norm]

Kipt - thanks, a couple of years ago, those mini dioramas were highlighted in a military modelling magazine. Beautiful work.

Fenton are you adding your W&N ink to the Future wash? or are you putting the pure Future on first to seal it before washing with ink?

At the moment I have a mix of a third of each ...... Future, Water and W&N Peat Brown.

[Fenton]

I do both. For the future wash I only use W&N black ink. For some reason I cant  get the Nut brown to work properly in the future clear, its just too transparent so I normally just put the nut brown ink on diluted with water straight on to  the figure after painting . Its been a while since I tried the nut brown with the future wash so maybe worth another go

Like you in a coffee jar I mix equal parts water and future and about 3/4 of a bottle of black ink. Maybe I just need more brown to make that colour  work properly

[Norm]

Thanks, I find the brown alone a problem and reinforce it with a tad of darker ink. There must be a balance at some point, but I find with brown and future that the effect is either too weak, or I go too far the other way and get a muddy figure. The search goes on!

[Leman]

I read a couple of years back that a coat of satin varnish before applying magic wash helps to keep the wash in the creases. I also use peat brown in most of my magic wash mixes and using this method produces a nice subtle effect.

[Not Drowning, Waving]

To avoid tedium couple of dry brush highlights. Come to think of it just do that. All good.

[Not Drowning, Waving]

So perhaps the post was intended for another thread.
Could be a 'don't give the remote to grandpa' moment. And here was I thinking the premature aging thing only happened to others...

[kipt]

Anyone know how the Blaze Away 10mm ACW from Lancashire Games fits scale wise with the Pendraken range?

[Westmarcher]

Anyone know how the Blaze Away 10mm ACW from Lancashire Games fits scale wise with the Pendraken range?

http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=377274

[Techno II]

I'd love to know what the 'flopped' grid, behind the wee men is supposed to show.

It's a very good comparison, between ranges, though.

Cheers - Phil.