An A7V for my Kaiser' s infantry...

[fogsoldiers]

 

You could also try Dom's Decals.

Checked now
Nice website and bookmarked but only Maltese crosses for WWI and the Balkan crosses sheets are for WWII only

[Rothgar68]

The hand-painted crosses look fine to me.

[OldenBUA]

I'd just like to point out that the straight cross type is called a 'Balkenkreuz' i.e. a beam/girder cross. It has nothing to do with the Balkan. The proper English name would be the Latin cross.

[Techno]

Excellent, I like it!  

The worst thing about that vehicle is casting it!  The undercuts and detailing rip the mould to shreds and we only get half a dozen from each mould.  

OOER !....I must be missing something here Leon...To my tired old eyes, it doesn't look like it should do that.
I'm obviously not looking at it in the right way.

Ahhh, hang on....Is it a 'resin' model, and the RTV 'rubber' is a lot more fragile than the 'normal' one for the metals ?
Never quite been able to get my head around RTV moulds....unless I'm making copies of something 'flat' that I'm duplicating for myself, such as shields.
Could the undercuts be made less severe, (Filled in a bit) without loosing the overall look of the model ?
I'm intrigued now. 
Cheers - Phil.

[fogsoldiers]

 

I'd just like to point out that the straight cross type is called a 'Balkenkreuz' i.e. a beam/girder cross. It has nothing to do with the Balkan. The proper English name would be the Latin cross.

You' re right. I know the correct name is Latin cross, another popular name is St. George' s cross, but I used the decals sheet name for ease of reference

[Leon]

Ahhh, hang on....Is it a 'resin' model, and the RTV 'rubber' is a lot more fragile than the 'normal' one for the metals ?
Never quite been able to get my head around RTV moulds....unless I'm making copies of something 'flat' that I'm duplicating for myself, such as shields.
Could the undercuts be made less severe, (Filled in a bit) without loosing the overall look of the model ?

Yeah, it's a resin model, so we pour in through the base of the tank.  So, it's the undercuts front and rear which cause the problems, and trying to de-mould it through a smaller gap, so it does tend to rip a lot quicker than our other ones.

[Techno]

Yeah, it's a resin model, so we pour in through the base of the tank.  So, it's the undercuts front and rear which cause the problems, and trying to de-mould it through a smaller gap, so it does tend to rip a lot quicker than our other ones.

Gotcha !!
Cheers - Phil.

[fogsoldiers]

 

A nice pic from Model Expo Italy

My A7V and a bigger one...by the way...the yellow one is Cioporeporter