problem with Milliput Modeling Clay

[Jagger]

I bought some milliput standard yellow-grey modeling clay.  According to the box, it is suited to military, railway, farming and ship modeling.  Per the instructions, the modeling clay, once blended, should be "hard as a rock" after a couple hours.  Well that is not happening.  Even several days later, the mixture is definitely harder but still easily manipulated.  I am not sure what is the problem.  I am wondering if I haven't blended the mixture well enough or perhaps, I have a bad batch of milliput.

Any ideas what might be the problem? 

Also is this is the best forum for a modeling clay question?  Or should I post it somewhere else?

[fred.]

Have you taken similar amounts of each colour, then thoroughly mixed them together?

After mixing the militput should be an even colour, with no lumps of the two original putties visible.

There are several of Pendraken's sculptors on here (not me!), so its probably a good a place as any to ask.

[Jagger]

I think so but I am going to make another attempt this weekend and I will watch the quantities closely.

[Leon]

A bad batch could be possible, but it's more likely to have been the mix unfortunately.  It can take a while to get them properly mixed up, to the point your fingers ache at times!  I'm sure some of our sculptors will be able to comment when they see this.

[Techno]

Hi Jagger

As Fred and Leon say....make sure you mix it together thoroughly...and in equal quantities, as near as you can.....If the hardener has got a cruddy 'varnishy' outer layer...pare that away carefully so you don't waste too much..(You'll find it SO hard to get rid of the lumps from the mix if you don't)....Just use the remaining 'soft centre'....Much easier to mix like that.
Fair enough.... you'll end up throwing some of the yellow away at the end of the box..Basically because you'll have some of that left over !

Another thing that makes a fair bit of difference is a) The temperature of the putty when you mix it....If you can somehow warm it slightly, you'll find it much softer and easier to mix together.... And b) The temperature of the room it's setting in.
If it's very cool, it can take ages....But on the other hand if you can put it somewhere warm/slightly hot it'll set really quickly.

The only time I tend to use Milliput is for sticking some of the figures to a base...(e.g... when I made Leon a number of dollies...dolly on wire frame pushed into the Milliput)
Those were dried quickly by leaving them on top of a radiator on a piece of plasticard.

Hope the above helps (and makes sense !)

Cheers - Phil.

[nikharwood]

If the hardener has got a cruddy 'varnishy' outer layer...pare that away carefully so you don't waste too much..(You'll find it SO hard to get rid of the lumps from the mix if you don't)....Just use the remaining 'soft centre'....Much easier to mix like that.
Fair enough.... you'll end up throwing some of the yellow away at the end of the box..Basically because you'll have some of that left over !

That's the big one with Milliput for me - don't get tempted to try to mix those hard bits...nightmare 

[Jagger]

Thanks all!  If I have time this weekend, I will take another shot at it.

[Techno]

Good luck Jagger.

You'll get used to it in no time.

Cheers - Phil

[Leman]

I find GW's green stuff works better than Miliput - but as usual it's more expensive.

[nikharwood]

I find GW's green stuff works better than Miliput - but as usual it's more expensive.

Only if you buy it from them...go look for Kneadatite 

[goat major]

Ebays a good place to find it. You'll get oodles compared to the miserly sliver that GW will flog you.

[Leman]

But it is better than Miliput isn't it!

[Paint it Pink]

The way I do this is to roll out separate sausages of  of the two parts.

I also find that  if one does this one can roll out the so called varnish on the epoxy.

The sausage like lengths I roll very thin, only stopping when I keep breaking the sausage.

Once both parts are rolled out into equal length sausages that are the same size, then I plait them together and fold over once or twice, depending on the length.

All this takes time, but you will always get a good mi.

Putting Milliput  masters in the airing cupboard, or an oven on low heat will speed up curing.

[Jagger]

Ok, everything worked fine this time.  The difference is I dug out the putty from the center end of the rolls.  Basically I was getting the putty from the interior of the rolls as suggested.  The putty sticks are hardened on the exterior and much softer in the center.  The interior putty hardened nicely.

A couple things I have noticed working with the milliput.  The amount of putty needed to produce minor repairs or modifications is tiny for 10mm.  Often in getting the putty rolled into tiny balls and smoothed out, the putty tended to crumble and develop holes.  I started just plastering on what I could and then filling the holes with more putty and smoothing.  I also noticed I was having problems getting the putty to stick to the models.  It seems to prefer sticking more to my knife or my skin than the models.

Overall though, it seems to be getting the job done.   I managed to repair a couple broken lances on some mounted 10mm knights and made some minor modes to other mounted knights.  This could open up all sorts of interesting possibilities......   

Thanks all!