Using resin to model water features

[pierre the shy]

Making up quite a few bogs from MDF as terrain features to use in some upcoming FK&P games set in Ireland. I've got the shapes cut out and suitably base coated. Next I want to add some pooled areas to each one with 2:1 water modelling resin then flock the bases round the resulting pools and add suitable Gamersgrass clumps to complete them.

Anyone out there that has used resin to model water features who has any practical tips beyond the obvious mix in a "sacraficial" container, pour outside and wear eye/mouth/hand protection?

Stuff I have says it needs at least 24 hours to cure to hardness. 

 

[John Cook]

Making up quite a few bogs from MDF as terrain features ........   

I use Vallejo's Acrylic Water Texture 26.230 Still Water.  Scrape an indentation into the mdf, I score a criss-cross pattern a millimetre or so deep, and remove is with a wood chisel.  Then seal it so the water texture isn't absorbed into the mdf.  I use PVA glue to seal it.   Paint and dress the terrain piece as you would normally, paint the bog/pond darker towards the centre and lighter round the edges, place any reeds, rushes etc round the edges and, last of all, when everything is dry and the piece is otherwise finished, introduce the Still Water into the indentation.  It is liquid and runs into all the nooks and crannies and around the rushes leaving them sticking out of the 'water'.  It dries hard in few hours and be sure to place it in a dust-free environment such as a cupboard. 

[Big Insect]

I use E-Z WATER C1206 from Woodland Scenics, it comes as a lot of small round resin pellets that you need to heat up (I use old foil take-away containers held with pliers over a gas ring to create a small crucible)*. When it is hot & liquid I simply pour it into the indentations. I have found it better for larger, deeper water features - doing all the sorts of thing that John has suggested first to create the scenic effect. However, watch some of the plastic railway rushes or water plants as the heat of the liquid tends to melt their stems!
The advantages over the Vallejo 'Still Water' are that it cools & sets very (very) quickly (so no dust issues) and you can also create really quite deep features by layering, without any misting or murkiness.
The only challenge I have had with it is that if you overheat it it can burn (& discolor) and also if you overheat you'll get bubbles. However, if it is not hot enough you can get a strange surface tension effect, so the water appears to be very slightly domed around the edges.
NB: I have even used it to create a Celtic water shrine (a 28mm ADLG Camp) with gold & bronze vessels and weapons in it - it was very effective. I used a sheet of glass to allow me to pour the molten liquid up against it to create an underwater view of the various votive offerings (from the side). The glass peeled away easily from the plastic/resin once it had cooled.
* the fumes were negligible - but I did have the cooker hood extractor fan running just in case.
For smaller features - puddles and small scale bogs - for 15mm/10mm/6mm scale - I use the Vallejo's Acrylic Water Texture 26.230 Still Water, just as John does. In many ways it is simpler (no heating) - but as John says do keep it in a dust (& cat hair ) free environment as it dries/set or you'll end up with some very odd effects.

NB: by adding a tinge of light blue/green ink to the 'Still Water' you can also create an ice effect - with a white dry-brush after it has set. But you'll need to experiment to get the depth of colour you need just right.
Cheers
Mark