Affixing back banners, any tips?

[mmcv]

I use Loctite and with baking soda and the bond is pretty much instant. Not overdoing either the superglue or the baking soda seems to be the key. In my experience at least.

Interesting, I wonder was I using too much super glue. I did your trick of tapping off the banner so there was only a few grains of soda, but maybe there's too much superglue being used. I might try dipping the pole into the glue rather than applying it to the figure to see if that works any better, though I was only applying a small amount. The fastest to bond took about 30-40 seconds, while the last one seemed to take several attempts over a minute or two. Doesn't seem like masses of time but for holding such a fiddly thing over and over it is somewhat of a strain.

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

You could try holding it in place and drip in from side,

[fred.]

Blutack

Use a fair blob to lie the figure face down into, super glue on the back, then use the rest of the blue tack to hold the banner in place while it sets

I did file the bottom of the pole on some of the banners to a 45º angle to help with the fit (this this was on some of the samurai)

[mmcv]

Thanks for the ideas. I found using a little less superglue actually helped fix them in place quickly. Did a bunch more tonight and went a bit smoother. Going to need to order some more already. I'd only ordered a small amount to decide how I want everything to look so once I've these test units painted and I'm happy will get a bunch more in.

When I was doing the Aztecs I did construct some elaborate scaffolds out of blu tac and lolly sticks to fix in place until set. The worst was trying to affix banners to the back of a Chinese chariot, for whatever reason they just wouldn't hold.

I've added a small dab of epoxy to the banners I've done for a little more strength.

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

Practice helps as well......

[John Cook]

There are a number of things to remember with superglue.  It reacts to moisture, which is why it bonds skin so well.  You need two flat, non porous, surfaces for the best bond.  It is less good at bonding porous surfaces.  The more glue used, the longer it takes to activate.  It has a definite 'shelf life', in my experience and once opened, becomes less effective with time.  Gel and liquid glue have different properties and specific applications.  If you are looking for something that give a little more support while activating, try using gel.  I always use gel when rigging a model ship, for example, as the thread is porous and gel holds it in place better while it cures. 

Using baking powder with superglue is useful if you're using the glue as a filler, or for bonding porous surfaces.  Otherwise is unnecessary, messy and dangerous.  It produces toxic fumes and gets very hot, sufficient to burn skin.  Once set, though, it is very hard indeed, almost like concrete but almost impossible to file/sand/cut etc.  I gave up using it a long time ago, mainly because there are better proper fillers out there for modelling applications, and better and safer ways to accelerate curing.

There are two things you might try to activate superglue.  The first is to buy an aerosol spray of superglue activator.  Usually about a fiver from Halfords or Screw fix.  These are specifically designed to accelerate curing time on difficult or porous surfaces.  Their effect is instantaneous.

The other option is a fine spray of water from an atomiser.  I use a bottle that once held kitchen surface disinfectant.  It has a lever action pump, you know the sort of thing.  If you need one in a hurry, you can buy an empty atomiser, usually called a travel spray bottle or something similar for a couple of quid or less.  Boots do one for pennies.

[mmcv]

Practice helps as well......

You're not wrong, just have to make sure I'm in a patient mindset!

There are a number of things to remember with superglue.  It reacts to moisture, which is why it bonds skin so well.  You need two flat, non porous, surfaces for the best bond.  It is less good at bonding porous surfaces.  The more glue used, the longer it takes to activate.  It has a definite 'shelf life', in my experience and once opened, becomes less effective with time.  Gel and liquid glue have different properties and specific applications.  If you are looking for something that give a little more support while activating, try using gel.  I always use gel when rigging a model ship, for example, as the thread is porous and gel holds it in place better while it cures. 

Using baking powder with superglue is useful if you're using the glue as a filler, or for bonding porous surfaces.  Otherwise is unnecessary, messy and dangerous.  It produces toxic fumes and gets very hot, sufficient to burn skin.  Once set, though, it is very hard indeed, almost like concrete but almost impossible to file/sand/cut etc.  I gave up using it a long time ago, mainly because there are better proper fillers out there for modelling applications, and better and safer ways to accelerate curing.

There are two things you might try to activate superglue.  The first is to buy an aerosol spray of superglue activator.  Usually about a fiver from Halfords or Screw fix.  These are specifically designed to accelerate curing time on difficult or porous surfaces.  Their effect is instantaneous.

The other option is a fine spray of water from an atomiser.  I use a bottle that once held kitchen surface disinfectant.  It has a lever action pump, you know the sort of thing.  If you need one in a hurry, you can buy an empty atomiser, usually called a travel spray bottle or something similar for a couple of quid or less.  Boots do one for pennies.

Thanks for this.

Once I get into the swing of it I may try doing some with and some without baking soda to see if it makes that much of a difference. though given it's a round pole attaching to textured armour I suspect it does help fill that gap a little. As Ithoriel suggested, I only use a few grains.

The superglue activator I suspect might be too messy as these are very fine attachments, but the atomiser could be a good option, will have to have a rummage and see if we have one to give it a go.

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

poloionc ships some time. I do no more than 2 at a time and they take an hour each.

[John Cook]

The superglue activator I suspect might be too messy as these are very fine attachments, but the atomiser could be a good option, will have to have a rummage and see if we have one to give it a go.

Superglue activator evaporates within seconds of application.  It isn't messy at all.  From what you say about the textured surface, I'd use superglue gel, which will tend to fill the textured surface, and an an activator.

[mmcv]

Superglue activator evaporates within seconds of application.  It isn't messy at all.  From what you say about the textured surface, I'd use superglue gel, which will tend to fill the textured surface, and an an activator.

Maybe wasteful is more the word, as it's a spray-on and it's only a couple of mm of bonding area so would be difficult to spray suitably I imagine? though I do see there are paint on ones you can get too.

I have tried gels in the past and found them to be quite brittle, though if it just needs to hold until the resin gets added that might be okay. Only downside of using the resin for strength if it blobs you lose details. Fine for the back banners but not so great for the banner holders. They may be fine without it though as can drill a little if needed on them.

I was able to paint the primer onto the current batch I affixed without any breaking off, so will have to see how they hold up to painting as well. Hopefully reasonably strong.

[Orcs]

Using baking powder with superglue is useful if you're using the glue as a filler, or for bonding porous surfaces.  Otherwise is unnecessary, messy and dangerous.  It produces toxic fumes and gets very hot, sufficient to burn skin.  Once set, though, it is very hard indeed, almost like concrete but almost impossible to file/sand/cut etc.  I gave up using it a long time ago, mainly because there are better proper fillers out there for modelling applications, and better and safer ways to accelerate curing.

I cut myself a while back and as the cut would not stop bleeding put some super glue on it, but it was bleeding to fast for thwe glue to activate - so I sprinkled on some baking powder !!!!!   I ran very quickly to the tap shouting all sorts of expletives.