A different way to undercoat...

[Glorfindel]

I thought I would let you know about a new method of undercoating that I am
currently trying out (and am very happy with).   Bear in mind that this is new to
me but the idea might be older than the hills !

Previously, every discussion on undercoating has focused on using either black or
white, with each having their own benefits and drawbacks.   My preference has
always been black u/c but I recognise that this doesn't always result in the bright
colours that are important for smaller scales.

Anyway, I've been inspired by recent posts by 'shutuphippie' and his gaming
group and have started to paint up some War of the Spanish Succession figures.   
As many of the uniforms are based on 'light grey with colour facings' scheme, I
wondered whether there was a way I could reduce the painting burden.   

This led me to try out a new idea : white undercoat with a wash of Army Painter
Dark Tone ink.   This results in a grey finish which provides some of the benefits of
both black and white u/c.   Firstly, it adds great definition to the figure (something
that can be an issue with black u/c).   This makes painting so much easier.   
Secondly, the colours are brighter.  Finally, and something I very much appreciated,
every separate part of the figure is 'black lined' (or dark grey lined).

I've now painted up 40+ figures and am very happy with this technique.   It feels
particularly useful for the horse and musket period when so many Regiments wore
light grey (+ facing colour).

I will post pics next month when finish off the WSS battalions I am painting up
(need to buy the separate Command pack to do this).

I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has already tried this or has some better
ideas.

Cheers,


Phil


of the figure has a dark edge.   For example, the

[petercooman]

I use a dark grey undercoat for a lot of miniatures, or with something like acw union troops I use the dark blue uniform colour as undercoat.

Speeds things up a bit, and makes them lighter compared to using black.

I still use black for models with a lot of armour plating though, followed by a drybrush of chainmail.

[FierceKitty]

Wot for a something is dis "chainmail", pliss?

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

Wot for a something is dis "chainmail", pliss?

Oh no not again, CHAINMAIL is armour made from metal rings. And I thought cats wuz supposed to be moderately intelligent.

[FierceKitty]

Using the word "thought" somewhat loosely, of course.

[Raider4]

Wot for a something is dis "chainmail", pliss?

In the context, I'd say it's the name of a paint colour.

Cheers, Martyn
--

[petercooman]

In the context, I'd say it's the name of a paint colour.

Cheers, Martyn
--

Yup old gw metallic colour

[John Cook]

Never understood why black is used as it just dulls subsequent colours.  What we are really talking about here is a primer the purpose of which is to provide a foundation for subsequent coats of colour.  Priming is an essential part of preparation and the appearance of the finished figure is entirely dependent on preparation as a whole. 
I use thinned PVA glue as a primer, and usually undercoat with the principal colour of the model in question.  Sometimes an undercoat is not necessary and a single coat of the principle colour is sufficient.  It depends on the opacity. 

[Norm]

I think black came from the days were back lining was a heavily prevalent ways of painting miniatures. For those who black prime and then dry-brush in white before painting, the black base still holds some advantages.

[John Cook]

I think black came from the days were back lining was a heavily prevalent ways of painting miniatures. For those who black prime and then dry-brush in white before painting, the black base still holds some advantages.

OK.  I find washes do that.

[DanJ]

White primer, light wash and facing colours; the easy way to paint 7YW French.

[Techno]

Very nice, again, Dan ! 

Cheers - Phil

[Glorfindel]

>>Never understood why black is used as it just dulls subsequent colours.

This is probably one of those issues, very much like the size of figure people prefer, that
can get strangely emotive !   

I have tried both black and white u/c and, although each has beefits and drawbacks, prefer
the former.   The aspect of white u/c I personally find challenging are (a) the need to cover
every square millimeter to make sure the u/c doesn't show through and (b) the lack of
definition between different colours if you don't subsequently go back and black line.

As with everything, each to their own.

I do, however, recognise the fact that colours can appear quite dull, hence the search for
something different.   I'm not saying the end result is perfect but it has kept me painting
(which is a good sign).   When I've finished a couple of battalions, I'll post some pics so that
you can make your own mind up.

Best wishes,


Phil



This is probably something that others have tried - its just that I have never read about
anything other than black or white u/c.

[DFlynSqrl]

The aspect of white u/c I personally find challenging are (a) the need to cover
every square millimeter to make sure the u/c doesn't show through

That's honestly the only issue I've ever had with white primer.  I found it very frustrating that once I started taking pictures little white spots would show that I couldn't see just on visual inspection.  Call it tired old man's eyes I guess.

[toxicpixie]

If it helps, I use black, white, grey and red oxide primer, as well as various coloured. Sometimes with a wash, sometimes not!

All have a use, all work a little differently, all depend on scale and client needs.

E.g. I have a lot of black undercoated > block paint colours with black lining for commissions (esp. in smaller scales). I've also been doing some 15mm Renaissance recently, and that was a great white undercoat > bright colours > wash down for shade job. Sometimes, black under coat > coloured dry brush or light overspray > paint up works.

Just depends on what the client/scale/painting type needs