Tips for Painting and Basing Modern and WWII Troops?

[Mako]

I've got some Cold War era, and WWII troops that need basing and painting, so would like to know if anyone has any tips for doing that?

Haven't worked with this scale before, so any suggestions for making the troops look nice would be appreciated.

I'm thinking of perhaps temporarily gluing some to strips of wood or other material to prime them (do you do that?), and then perhaps to spray them with a base camo color.  Then, go back and add on any detailing, e.g. flesh color, dark colored boots, weapons paint detailing, etc..

Are any of you giving them a wash, and/or drybrushing later?

Any tips of basing materials, and/or flocking would be appreciated too.

I'm considering using sheet styrene for the bases, perhaps with a thin sheet-metal underlay to secure them to a magnetic sheet, when traveling.

Would love to see some pics too, for Vietnam, US Cold War, Falklands, etc., etc..

[Ithoriel]

I stick mine to tongue depressors (like big lolly sticks and available from Minibits) using Copydex. Good bond but easy to peel figures off when painted.

I undercoat with spray white or black depending on the item, though more usually black than white.

I have base colour sprays but rarely use them, except for vehicles.

I do block colours then use a diluted ink wash (colour varies but usually a shade of brown or else black).

Finally pick out detail and do highlights.

Peel from painting stick, superglue to base and texture and paint base.

Finally give a protecting spray of matt varnish.

[barbarian]

For WWII, as they are spaced on my bases (4 mini for a 50mm x 25 mm base) I do all the gluing and basing first, then paint.

[paulr]

I haven't painted any 10mm WWII yet but have done quite a few WWI. From your questions I assuming your looking for basic advise, so...

I use painting rods, similar to tongue depressors but longer and thicker. I tend to group figures by pose as this lets me get in a rhythm when painting the details.

It also allows me to add variety to figures in a structured way. For example I might use different dry brush colours to give different degrees of fading.

I undercoat grey and then paint the main colour(s) and dry brush jackets, pants and hat/helmet. Then paint details. I then highlight faces, hands, and bayonets.

I definitely use a wash, usually black. There are a number of ways of doing this, ask and I am sure you will get plenty of options.

Finally I do a very light overall dusty dry brush.

I use sheet styrene for bases as it is easy to cut. I use a mix of filler, paint and PVA glue to cover the base and then place the painted figures into the mixture. This blends the figures into the base. While still wet I usually sprinkle a few areas with one colour of flock then cover the whole base with the main flock colour. Finally I add some 'shrubbery', grass or rocks to add texture and variety.

Light coloured flock helps figures stand out. If you have mainly painted in larger scales you will want to use lighter colours than you are used to. 'Normal' colours will look too dark on the smaller figures.

[Mako]

Thanks for the tips.

I really appreciate them.

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

I followed Dougie's amazing work:
Dougie's
http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,5686.0.html
And my paltry efforts
http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,8156.0.html

[Sean67]

Welcome Mako
I use the wooden stirrers that MC kindly put out (but available in other C***a coffee shops) I then under coat with black do a base colour of the main uniforms colour then if plain a black wash then a bury rush of a lighter base colour.
If you're going to try Camo I'd do the base colour of the uniform as the lighter colour (I.e. If doing German camo use camo beige) Then useing a splayed brush dab on little patches of colour with it.
Then do the webbing ! But best way would be just get a few figures and practice till you're happy with the effect you have.
Regards
Sean

[NeilCFord]

I use sheet styrene for bases as it is easy to cut. I use a mix of filler, paint and PVA glue to cover the base and then place the painted figures into the mixture. This blends the figures into the base. While still wet I usually sprinkle a few areas with one colour of flock then cover the whole base with the main flock colour. Finally I add some 'shrubbery', grass or rocks to add texture and variety.

Light coloured flock helps figures stand out. If you have mainly painted in larger scales you will want to use lighter colours than you are used to. 'Normal' colours will look too dark on the smaller figures.

Could you expand on what you mean by "filler" please Paul. Are you using a pre-made product or a powder and using the glue and paint to constitute it?

I love the idea of placing the figures in to the wet mixture, definitely solves the blending problem, or getting the basing materials in between the members of an MG team.

- Neil.

[fred.]

Not sure what type of filler Paul uses, but I have been using Ronseal Wood filler for a while for basing, it is brown coloured which helps, and is a good constisistency to work with. You gloop some on the base, and squish the figures in. Then use a cocktail stick to scrape a bit of filler over the base.
Takes a while to dry, but once done is a good solid base, that only needs highlighting and flocking.

[Ithoriel]

I use B&Qs fine surface filler with a little water to make it flow into gaps better. It's white, so needs painted before adding sand and flock but it works for me and is pretty cheap.

[NeilCFord]

Ah, now I know what we are talking about, I have a tube of Wilco brown wood filler that I e previously used for its intended purpose. I will experiment with that.

- Neil.

[paulr]

I use a premixed product we call Polyfilla in NZ. Used for fixing cracks in plaster board. I mix in a little paint to colour and some PVA to thicken and harden.

Wood filler would also work, I like the ability to use the same paint I use for the bases to get a good colour match and I also control the consistency of the mixture.

It washes off painted figures in water when a figure falls over

[NeilCFord]

Thanks Paul. I should be able to find the same stuff here, so I can try different options and see which works best for me. Might find starting with a white filler is better, especially as I will at some point be basing a load of desert troops, and the brown would be overpowering.

- Neil.

[John Cook]

I've got some Cold War era, and WWII troops that need basing and painting, so would like to know if anyone has any tips for doing that?

Haven't worked with this scale before, so any suggestions for making the troops look nice would be appreciated.

I'm thinking of perhaps temporarily gluing some to strips of wood or other material to prime them (do you do that?), and then perhaps to spray them with a base camo color.  Then, go back and add on any detailing, e.g. flesh color, dark colored boots, weapons paint detailing, etc..

Are any of you giving them a wash, and/or drybrushing later?

Any tips of basing materials, and/or flocking would be appreciated too.

I'm considering using sheet styrene for the bases, perhaps with a thin sheet-metal underlay to secure them to a magnetic sheet, when traveling.

Would love to see some pics too, for Vietnam, US Cold War, Falklands, etc., etc..

Everybody has their own approach.  For SCW and WW2 I fix the figures to their base, usually three to a base, and they will be sufficiently far apart that using a strip of wood is unnecessary.

I have stopped undercoating in white or black as I find it is a waste of time.  My undercoat is the main uniform colour, with a second coat of the same colour if necessary.  When finished they get a coat of wash, usually brown, and are highlighted by dry brushing.  

Then I paint the base - I use plasticard or styrene sheet - a dark earth colour.  This is only to stop any white plastic showing after what follows.  The base then get a coat of PVA glue and then is dipped it in some ready mixed cement, left over from some pointing year ago, or sharp sand.  The result is a rough earth coloured textured base.

More PVA glue and then dipped in model railway grit.  Repeat and dip in static grass and finally add a few tufts.  All this is available in any combination of colours from model railway outlets.  Finish with a spray of matt varnish then, finally, print out a sticky label with unit details and fix it to the underside of the base.    

You can see some of my figures under the CTV thread here http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,11402.0.html.  

Hope this helps.