ACW 10mm NOT 6mm!

[getagrip]

Yup

Maybe just the one unit of them then. 

Leon, LEEEEEON!  Can I change my order please? 

[cbr3d.com]

I wouldn't have included Zouaves to start with, although I guess they add variety with their appearance to the battlefield.  I guess they also act to draw the attention of an inexperienced opponent, so perhaps use them as cannon fodder to draw your opponents attention away from your clever and devilish plan to make your main attack with other units elsewhere.   

[FierceKitty]

A bit like the scythed chariots in Successor armies.

[Leman]

Wow, overwhelmed by the responees, a real help guys

As to paint, I have the entire Vallejo range so would prefer to use them.   Any suggestions for a Vallejo blue Will?

I paint my ACW Union using Oxford Blue. I really like it for these, and both the French and Prussians in FPW. I find it a much more satisfying rendition of dark blue in 10mm than Dark Prussian Blue.

[getagrip]

I paint my ACW Union using Oxford Blue. I really like it for these, and both the French and Prussians in FPW. I find it a much more satisfying rendition of dark blue in 10mm than Dark Prussian Blue.

Thanks Leman.  Was there a "set" Union blue or was it really just any dark blue they had?

[Leman]

Having read a lot on this topic, the consensus seems to be that government contracts were given to various contractors, all of whom used their own version of dark blue dye, which inevitably faded after a couple of months of campaigning. Paul Stevenson, in his useful little book on wargaming the ACW, states that he uses five different shades of dark blue and three different shades of light blue to paint his Union troops. I have used both Vallejo Pastel Blue and Pale Blue for Union trousers. From looking at re-enactors' trousers I think you could also get away with a light bluish grey. And don't get me started on Confederate grey!

[getagrip]

Having read a lot on this topic, the consensus seems to be that government contracts were given to various contractors, all of whom used their own version of dark blue dye, which inevitably faded after a couple of months of campaigning. Paul Stevenson, in his useful little book on wargaming the ACW, states that he uses five different shades of dark blue and three different shades of light blue to paint his Union troops. I have used both Vallejo Pastel Blue and Pale Blue for Union trousers. From looking at re-enactors' trousers I think you could also get away with a light bluish grey. And don't get me started on Confederate grey!

That's pretty much what I expected; there's no way all of the troops would be in a single shade of blue across several thousand troops.

[cbr3d.com]

Isn't it a case that early on in the war there were some Confederate troops in blue and conversely some Union troops dressed in grey?

[getagrip]

Isn't it a case that early on in the war there were some Confederate troops in blue and conversely some Union troops dressed in grey?

Oh dear Lord, don't make it any harder for me that it already is!

[Ithoriel]

Isn't it a case that early on in the war there were some Confederate troops in blue and conversely some Union troops dressed in grey?

Yes, but I'd have waited until getagrip had a firm handle on the basics before throwing him that curve ball

[Leman]

Yes indeed. These were all militia units wearing their pre-war uniforms, which soon wore out. At the start of the Valley Campaign some of Jacksons troops were still wearing worn blue uniforms, but these were quite quickly replaced with official grey uniforms, or grey or brown homespun. The line I was fed back in the 60s was that as the war progressed Confederate uniforms became more ragged and more brown. Apparently this is now considered to be tosh, and in fact the Confederates became more uniform and more grey (and in some cases dark blue-grey) as the war progressed.

[getagrip]

Yes, but I'd have waited until getagrip had a firm handle on the basics before throwing him that curve ball

Thanks Ith; the move from fantasy to real is quite a headache.  Up to now I've been able to slap on the colours I wanted to; no-one can argue how it should look (even orcs which can be both green and a brownie colour).

Historical stuff, massively different.

[cbr3d.com]

Getagrip - The thing is that unless you arre trying to create a museum display the thing is to be able to identify your and your opponents forces on the table top.   

Of course it also means that going with 'near right' will undoubtedly be as right as going by any book (which all differ in opinion anyway).   

I would suggest keep to 'blues' for Union and keep to greys for Confederate as a rule of thumb and you will not go far wrong.   

[Leman]

Another tip, which can apply to most wargames periods, is to concentrate on the troops from a particular campaign if you want to get two armies on the table fairly quickly that look 'right'. This is particularly the case with ACW - I hate seeing havelock wearing troops in an 1864 battle, or Western theatre flags in an eastern battle and vice versa. I am currently producing some command stands for the Atlanta campaign, where incidentally a very high proportion of Union troops wore the slouch hat.

[Ithoriel]

This:

Getagrip - The thing is that unless you arre trying to create a museum display the thing is to be able to identify your and your opponents forces on the table top.   

Rather than:

This is particularly the case with ACW - I hate seeing havelock wearing troops in an 1864 battle, or Western theatre flags in an eastern battle and vice versa.

At least when you are starting out.

You can get all anal about whether the buttons were brass or steel or if these particular flags were issued on the Friday before the battle or the Tuesday after it if and when you are so invested in the period that these details matter to you. Lets face it, for many (a majority of?) wargamers it never will. Sometimes "am I the grey ones or the blue ones?" is all we need to know