Mamluk headwear

[Druzhina]

Here is  short paper on Mamluk headwear:
Sultans with Horns: The Political Significance of Headgear in the Mamluk Empire, by Albrecht Fuess from Mamlūk Studies Review Vol. 12, No. 2, 2008

and the images referenced in it:
Figure 1. Syrian Christians in Breydenbach's 'Peregrinationes in Terram Sanctam'

Figure 2. Miniature in the manuscript of Rashīd al-Dīn's "Jāmiٔ al-Tawārīkh" in Edinburgh University Library representing Maḥmūd of Ghaznah donning a khilٔah sent by the caliph al-Qāhir in A.D. 1000.

Figure 3. Ruler wearing a qabā turkī with ṭirāz bands. On his head is a sharbūsh. His attendants also wear Turkish costumes. Most wear the cap known as kallawtah. From the frontispiece of the "Kitāb al-Aghānī" North Iraq, ca. 1218-19.  (The ruler is generally identified with Badr al-Dīn Lulu, Atabeg of Mosul, who died in 657/1259.

Figures 4 and 5. Inner medallions of the Baptistère de Saint Louis representing Sultan Baybars. (The Baptistère is in the possession of the Louvre in Paris.)

Figure 6. Mamluk wearing the kallawtah hunting a wild animal (furūsīyah manuscript, British Library MS Or. Add. 18866).

Figure 7. Sultan al-Nāṣir Muḥammad on his throne, from: Arnold von Harff, Die Pilgerfahrt des Ritters Arnold von Harff von Cöln durch Italien, Syrien, Aegypten, Arabien, Aethiopien, Nubien, Palästina, die Türkei, Frankreich und Spanien, wie er sie in den Jahren 1496 bis 1499 vollendet, beschrieben und durch Zeichnungen erläutert hat.

Figure 8. Reception of the Ambassadors. Louvre, Paris.

Figure 9. Qānṣawh al-Ghawrī with the nāٔūrah.

Figure 10. Ṭūmān Bāy.

Figure 11. Mameluke red zamṭ. in the manuscript of 'The pilgrimage of the Knight Arnold von Harff from Cologne through Italy, Syria, Egypt, Arabia, Ethiopia, Nubia, Palestine, Turkey, France and Spain, as he has completed in the years 1496 to 1499, described and illustrated by drawings'.

Figure 13. Ottomans besieging the Mamluks in Damascus. "Selīm-nāma," ca. 1521-24, Istanbul Topkapi Sarayi Museum MS H. 15978, fol. 235r.
(The difference in the style of headgear between Ottomans and Mamluks can clearly be noticed.)

The standard headwear for later Mamluk soldiers was the red Zamṭ. It is shown in a Furusiyya manuscript, A Mamluk Training with a Lance, David Collection Museum, Denmark, c. 1500 and in the later Kitab al-makhzun li arbab al-funun by al-tarabulusi, a manual of military practice and horsemanship, 1578-1579 (well after the zamṭ. was banned by the Ottomans).

I have also found Saladin portrayed as a Mamluk Sultan in the nāٔūrah turban, by Cristofano dell'Altissimo. Does anyone know of the original this was copied from?


MIRROR SITE
Sultans with Horns: The Political Significance of Headgear in the Mamluk Empire, by Albrecht Fuess

Druzhina
Illustrations of Egyptian/Syrian Costume & Soldiers

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

Get ahead, get a hat!

[Techno]

Good finds again, D.
Cheers - Phil